Patients with darker skin tones may hesitate at the idea of putting tiny needles into their face, and understandably so: not only are darker complexions more prone to showing signs of skin trauma (such as scars or hyperpigmentation), but the beauty world often overlooks diversity. As a result, the proper safety measures and procedures to use when microneedling on darker skin tones are frequently misunderstood (or not used at all).
Despite this frustrating information gap, that doesn’t mean microneedling isn’t a great option for patients with darker skin. Microneedling, when correctly performed by a med spa with in-depth knowledge and experience working with a variety of skin types, is a great way to reduce acne, scars, hyperpigmentation, texture, signs of aging, and much more.
Read on to learn more about what microneedling is, all the rejuvenating benefits it offers patients with darker skin tones, what you can expect from a microneedling session, and how AESTHETICS 360° will work with you to ensure you receive safe and effective treatment.
What Exactly is Microneedling?
Microneedling (also known as collagen induction therapy) is a non-surgical treatment for skin rejuvenation that involves the use of thin needles (usually ranging from 0.5 mm to 2.5 mm in length) puncturing the upper layers of your skin, creating “micro” channels. Unlike other mechanical exfoliation treatments, such as microdermabrasion, microneedling is designed to address skin concerns at a deeper level by stimulating collagen production and increasing blood flow.
At AESTHETICS 360°, we use the SkinPen® Microneedling device, which is made from sterile, medical-grade stainless steel needles and features disposable cartridges for single-use. (It’s the first and only microneedling device in the world that has been studied and cleared by the FDA!) During treatment, the SkinPen® moves across the skin and inserts needles in a stamping-like process, creating hundreds of microscopic punctures.
These tiny punctures cause the skin to react as though it were injured, allowing it to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. The newly formed collagen and elastin then give strength and firmness to the skin, while also helping to:
- Improve hyperpigmentation
- Reduce fine lines and wrinkles
- Diminish scarring caused by acne and stretch marks
- Enhance skin texture and tone
- Reduce the appearance of enlarged pores
Is Microneedling Safe for Darker Skin?
You’ve probably heard or been told that microneedling isn’t safe for dark skin, and this certainly can be true, but only if your microneedling provider doesn’t understand the unique characteristics of darker skin types.
Black, brown, or olive skin tones are structurally and functionally different in ways that impact how they respond to aesthetic treatments that create micro-wounds (like microneedling). As a result, they require a customized approach, especially as it relates to aspects like needle depth and speed, technique, aftercare protocols, and session frequency.
When the treatment is adjusted accordingly, microneedling can be highly effective on darker skin. In fact, in a study conducted of patients with dark skin, microneedling significantly improved acne scars and hyperpigmentation, with no worsening of hyperpigmentation. Another study published in the National Library of Medicine found that microneedling can successfully reduce a wide variety of skin concerns for patients with darker skin, including melasma.
The Unique Concerns of Darker Skin Tones
When conducting a microneedling treatment for a patient with darker skin, there are a few key characteristics to consider:
- Higher melanin density: Higher melanin density can make the skin more reactive to inflammation. That means when the skin is injured, melanocytes (the cells that produce melanin) can go into overdrive.
- Increased risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH): PIH occurs when your skin creates extra melanin after being injured or irritated, leading to dark spots. Around 65% of patients with dark skin experience this in some form after skin trauma. The key isn’t avoiding this response, but knowing how to manage and reduce it while microneedling.
- Increased risk of hypopigmentation: Although less common, trauma to the skin can result in lighter-than-normal skin patches, which are caused by decreased melanocyte activity (often as a result of too aggressive treatments).
- Increased risk of keloid scarring: Darker skin tones are 15 times more likely to develop keloid scars (raised, thick, and sometimes itchy scars). That’s why when it comes to microneedling, you have to be careful to promote healing, not scar tissue formation.
- Thicker dermal layer: Darker skin tones tend to have a thicker, denser dermal layer that produces more sebum. As a result, there is a higher likelihood of scar formation, and tailored needle depths need to be used to reduce trauma.
It’s important to remember that these unique skin characteristics aren’t obstacles: they’re scientific facts. And if your aesthetic provider isn’t taking the time to adjust their treatments to your skin type, then they’re not right for you.
Here’s a great way to think of it: Someone training for a marathon wouldn’t use the same workout plan as someone training to run a 5k. The same goes for skincare treatments! You shouldn’t use the same treatment plan on someone with fair skin as you would on someone with darker skin.
How Microneedling is Adjusted For Darker Skin
Every patient is different and comes equipped with their own unique skin biology, which means there is no “one-size-fits-all” method when it comes to aesthetic skincare treatments. That’s why, when microneedling on darker skin, it’s important to:
- Keep the needle depth on the shallower side, usually around 0.5 mm to 1.50 mm. (It may be a red flag if your provider immediately suggests 2.0 mm or deeper needling.)
- Allow adequate healing in between sessions (typically 4 to 6 weeks). Prioritize more frequent treatments spread out over a longer period of time, as opposed to fewer, more intensive treatments.
- Avoid aggressive techniques, like high-pressure stamping.
- Recommend post-treatment aftercare that includes skincare ingredients that regulate melanin production and reduce the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
It’s crucial to look for a licensed med spa that has experience working with patients of color! Don’t be afraid to ask to see before-and-after pictures of patients with similar skin tones, and discuss what protocols they take to adjust for darker skin. (At AESTHETICS 360°, we don’t shy away from these types of questions. In fact, we encourage them, and are happy to discuss them with you at length during a free consultation.)
What to Expect From a Microneedling Appointment at AESTHETICS 360°
Step 1: Customized Treatment Plan
At AESTHETICS 360°, our specialists have plenty of experience providing effective, medical-grade treatments for patients with black, brown, or olive skin tones. As a result, they’ll take the time to build a customized microneedling treatment plan that’s uniquely tailored to you. They’ll listen to your long-term goals and skincare history, and then establish realistic expectations for results.
Step 2: Microneedling Treatment
When it’s time for treatment, after a thorough facial cleansing, a topical numbing cream will be applied to your skin to keep you completely comfortable during the process. The numbing cream will be removed after 20-30 minutes, and then a gliding gel will be applied as the handheld SkinPen® device is moved across your skin in a series of passes (most patients only report feeling a slight vibration).
Step 3: Post-Treatment Care
Although the whole appointment will take around an hour, the actual microneedling procedure only takes about 20 minutes. Your face will be cleansed again at the end of the treatment, and an after-care ointment will be applied. One of our specialists will provide you with comprehensive aftercare instructions that will explain how to optimize healing and maintain results.
Trust AESTHETICS 360° to Customize Your Microneedling Treatment With Care
AESTHETICS 360° is honored to be the premier med spa in Milwaukee! Our clinical aestheticians and aesthetic nurse specialists have years of experience working with patients of all skin tones and types, and as a result, will know how to customize your skincare treatment to make it unique to you!
If you’re interested in learning how our microneedling services will be tailored to meet your skincare goals, either give us a call, fill out our form, or complete a virtual assessment today. It’s time to get started on your journey towards experiencing the 360-degree difference!
